Perugia, the capital of Umbria and the province which bears its name, is not a city easily overlooked, nor should it be.Surrounded by two perimeter walls – the inner Etruscan with 7 ancient gates built of massive stone and an outer Medieval ring intact over several kilometers – its historic centre is a 14th Century Gothic dream. Yet while its monumental buildings may speak of the past, the energy on its broad streets is decidedly present-day. For Perugia is a seat of learning, with both a major university founded in 1308 and Italy’s foremost University for Foreigners. Add other schools of art,...