Presepe Vivente
Italy's living nativity scenes, or presepi viventi, are a cherished Christmas tradition that feature actors and amateurs in costume portraying the biblical story of the birth of Jesus. The tradition started with St. Francis of Assisi in 1223, who built a replica of the manger scene at his hermitage in Greccio. Today, living nativity scenes are celebrated throughout Italy in a variety of ways, from small community gatherings to large-scale productions in historic towns.
Visiting a Presepe
A presepe vivente is a an important event in the celebration of Christmas in Italy. It’s a representation of the events surrounding the birth of Jesus with real people: a living nativity scene. Sometimes, as in Casole, the a whole village takes part, with crafts-people and sellers of local produce as well as the figures you'd expect, like the three kings surrounding Jesus, Mary and Joseph in the popular scene. Visiting a living nativity scene in Italy is a truly magical thing to do during the Christmas season, and the version in Casole d'Elsa is one of the best. The ProLoco and Casoleventi have been organising it since 1998 so they've got the organisation and the stage-craft very well-structured.
"Praesepium" A Live Nativity Scene in Tuscany
Every two years the whole village of Casole d'Elsa (where I used to live) enacts a living nativity scene. The entire village becomes part of the re-enactment and everybody dresses up as somebody from the scene. Some get the plum roles, like being one of the three kings, or even the madonna herself. Others take on more infamous characters, like the Roman soldiers wandering about keeping order or enforcing the census.
The village is decorated to represent what the daily life of the characters of that historical period might have been. Along the route there is an inn and there are artisan workshops where the crafts of the time are practiced such as spinning, dyeing wool, baking bread and more. A medieval cloister is decorated to represent the “Castle of Herod”, while outside there is the market square, a caravanserai for the rest of the travellers, and scattered everywhere soldiers, shepherds with their animals, blacksmiths, artists and other characters busy with the most varied commitments. The route is structured along a route that ends at the Hut of the Nativity.
On the day of the Epiphany, the scene is completed with the arrival of the Three Wise Men, on real camels, with gifts for Baby Jesus. “Nothing is left to chance: the animals are real, the merchandise is fresh, the furnishings are carefully faithful to the period represented. The atmosphere of the environment is truly unique and is made particularly poignant by the torchlight lighting, the perfumes and aromas diffused in the air and the background music that accompanies the visitor along the entire route. Everything then happens with such naturalness that it gives the visitor the sensation of losing real time”.
How to visit the living nativity in Casole d'Elsa, Tuscany
Casole d'Elsa can be reached in about an hour from Florence Airport, or in about 90 minutes from Pisa Airport. Here's a Google Map Link
Dates and Tickets for "Praesepium" living nativity in Casole d'Elsa 2024/25
The dates for the nativity are:
- Thursday 26 December
- Sunday 29 December
- Wednesday 1 January
- Saturday 4 January
- Sunday 5 January
- Monday 6 January
On each of these days the visiting times are between 3 and 7pm. Tickets cost €12 and can be bought on the day.
Where to stay in or near Casole d'Elsa
If you'd like to visit the living nativity, we have some places that are perfect for a visit:
Dan's House in the village
Dan's House sleeps 4 and is in the village itself - you can wander up the stepped street and be in the midst of the event from your front door.
Agriturismo Elvira on the edge of the village
This lovely Agriturismo has 3 apartments and a cottage, all just a short walk from the village.
Other places close to Casole
Author: Daniel Wrightson
Dan Wrightson grew up in Tuscany, Italy and has been writing about, sketching and exploring Tuscany and Italy since 1983.
22nd Nov 2024 22nd Nov 2024