Where to climb in Tuscany
Tuscany has more climbing than most people think and one can go from hard bolted limestone, to sparsely protected trad mountain routes to winter climbing all without leaving the region.
Sport climbing near Siena
The climbing focus of the area close to Siena is a tiny little quarry called Celsa. It has a number of bolted routes ranging from 5 to 7b. Here's a Google Maps pin: Cava di Celsa
Climbing in Southern Tuscany
Around the Southern areas of tuscany there are three local options plus some more enticing ones a couple of hours drive away:
1) Argentario
On the famed silvery half island itself, around the south side there are some sports crags plus some longer routes. Head for Orbetello and then drive round the south side (there is only one road) and look up til you see what looks likely as a crag. Here's the Google Maps location: Canne d'Organo, Argentario
2)Monte Amiata (Tepolini)
Great for hot summer days this crag is at nearly 1000 metres altitude. the rock is osme kind of volcanic close, dark rock, good for hard, steep climbs. I am going to have to fill in details here when i get back to Italy as, once again, I have forgotten my way.
3) Bouldering near Sassofortino
A great spot in the chestnut trees with a series of volcanic boulders to play on. Here's the spot to aim for on Google Maps: Sassofortino bouldering
3)Ansedonia
A peculiar choice, Ansedonia is right on the coast, very near the remains of the Roman city of Cosa (worth a visit for its beautifully made walls). The etruscans apparently used to worry about the small bay of Cosa silting up and carved a channel through solid rock to divert a stream to the side of the bay. Close to the carved channel there is a 9 storey high fissure in the rock, that you can explore at your own peril. Between these two channels there is an old quarry wall with some routes on it. Beware of the bolts, exposed to sea air, and climb the routes that have been recently re-equipped.
The other options for this area are to go south to an area very near Rieti in Umbria, called Ferentillo, where there is an enormous number of routes in the beautiful narrow valley of the ValNerina. Every year the local alpine guide GigiMario has a climbing festival when lots of top (and not so top) climbers meet and put up more new routes - and then have a big party. So the area is growing as we speak.
Climbing in Northern Tuscany
The main sports crag in this area is Monsummano, a tall red quarry above Montecatini Terme with lovely long sports routes, mainly from 6b to 7c and all the full 30 metres long.
Map pin drop: Cava Rossa, Monsummano Terme
But this quarry gets very hot in the summer and people tend to go to a place called Candalla, for hard sports routes in the shade, or into the Apuan alps for classic and modern alpine routes.
The favourite is undoubtedly 'L'Oppio' , a 600 metre climb up the North Face all classic alpine grade V. For more information try the CAI booklet on the Alpi Apuane or Stefano Funcks book, available in the bookshop 'La Stella alpina' in Florence.
