What to see in Pistoia
Easily reachable by car or train, Pistoia’s historic center is ideal for enjoying a lovely half-day in Tuscany. The small city of Pistoia is located precisely between Florence and Lucca, just 40 km from each. Although Pistoia is often overlooked in traditional tourist itineraries for first-time visitors to Tuscany, it boasts stunning architecture and a warm, inviting atmosphere. The city hosts various organized events that make it a gem for those interested in folklore, such as the Giostra dell’Orso and the renowned Pistoia Blues Festival.
A Day in Pistoia
Pistoia's small size and pedestrian centre make it and enjoyable city to explore and wander through. Here are my main must-sees, though you will find other tiny churches, squares and moments of delight.
Piazza Duomo
A great place to begin is in Piazza Duomo, the main square and home to Cattedrale San Zeno, Pistoia’s Duomo. The Cathedral is within the original city walls, originally built during Lombard rule in the 7th century and is dedicated to San Zeno. The first records of the building are found in the 10th century, though much of what you see today has undergone numerous restorations over the centuries. San Zeno was an important bishop from around 300 A.D. and is remembered with a statue on the cathedral's roof, alongside the statue of the city's patron, San Jacopo (St. James). Their historical connection stems from Bishop Zeno acquiring San Jacopo’s important relic from Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Interestingly, this early connection with the Camino de Santiago also meant that Pistoia's main square was, for centuries, the official starting point for Italian pilgrims who wished to walk the pilgrimage route to Spain.
Originally, this revered relic was housed in La Cappella di San Jacopo, built for that purpose. However, today, the stunning silver altar—one of the most striking features of the Duomo—and the relic have been relocated to the Cappella del Crocifisso, or the Chapel of the Crucifix, located on the church's right wall.
To the right of the Duomo, you'll notice an interesting building with a loggia with lancet arches and mullioned windows. This was once the bishop’s palace, or Palazzo dei Vescovi, and today houses a musuem about the history of the building.
Museo dell'Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi
To the left of the Cathedral is the Palazzo del Podestà, also called the Pretorio, and opposite it stands the Palazzo del Comune, both of which served as the historical centers for law enforcement and local government.
In the square there are two impressive towers dominating the medieval skyline: the bell tower of the Duomo and the Torre di Catalina. The bell tower, located to the left of the church, is of Gothic design and the battlements have the characteristic swallowtail shape of the Ghibelline supporters. 67 meters tall, it has 200 stairs that lead to breathtaking panoramic views well worth the climb. Tickets can be purchased at the Tourist Office.
According to legend, the shorter Torre di Catalina is believed to be the burial site of the famed Roman general Catiline.
Catiline was a Roman General infamous for his attempted coup, when he tried to seize power from the Roman Consuls. Famously thwarted thanks largely to Cicero (though he perhaps overplayed his role in the drama), the final moments of the coup were played out in Pistoia (then called Pistoria). After an initial defeat Catiline was attempting to escape over the Appennines but was caught near Pistoia. He turned to engage the superior forces, and was killed in the battle, ending the coup.
Facing the cathedral is the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Corte, an elegant example of 14th-century Gothic architecture. Its octagonal shape, made from two colors of marble, reflects the Romanesque tradition of Pistoia. The baptistery has seen various restoration efforts throughout the years. Inside, the atmosphere is both solemn and stark, with the magnificent baptismal font, crafted by Lanfranco di Como, drawing immediate attention at the center of the octagon.
Today, the baptistery is no longer used for religious services but occasionally hosts cultural events.
Chiesa di San Giovanni FuoriCivitas
Via Francesco Crispi, 2, Pistoia
Leaving Piazza Duomo, you quickly arrive at the second line of walls that encircle Pistoia, which includes several stunning palazzos and churches originally built outside the first wall. Pistoia has a compact city center, making it easy to navigate and explore without the risk of getting lost.
If you head south, down Via Roma, and then turn right down Via Cavour, you'll find a small church called San Giovanni fuoricivitas (Outside the city). Confusing now, it made sense when the small church was outside the first circle of walls. This charming church houses a thirteenth-century pulpit by Frà Guglielmo da Pisa, a wonderful piece of work decorated with biblical and natural scenes.
More pulpits
Pistoia happens to be rather rich in pulpits - the city was going through a period of economic prosperity in the 14th century and part of the richness was spent on commissioning beautiful pulpits from the best sculptors of the time. For 14th-century Catholics, the pulpit was an incredibly important feature: before the Council of Trent, the pulpit was the only point of contact between the clergy and the congregation during services. The altar and the presbytery were separated from the rest of the church, with the officiating clergy confined to the presbytery, and the laity confined to the nave. Between these two areas there was a screen or wall, similar to the iconostasis in Orthodox churches; something I believe we'd call a rood screen.
Pergamo di San Zeno:The lost pulpit
The earliest remaining pulpit of Pistoia, it was carved between 1162 and 1166 by Fra Guglielmo from Pisa, the same fellow who carved the beautiful example in San Giovanni Fuorcivitas. The pulpit has been dismantled but two panels were found in the floor of the presbytery and can now be seen in the Cathedral of San Zeno
Pulpit of San Michele in Groppoli
Via Acciaio e Agnolaccio, Pistoia
Pulpit of San Bartolomeo in Pantano
Piazza S. Bartolomeo, 11, Pistoia Close to the Spedale del Ceppo
Pulpit in San Giovanni Fuorcivitas
Splendid pulpit by Fra Guglielmo da Pisa
Pulpit of the church of Sant’Andrea
see below
Church of Sant'Andrea
Via Sant'Andrea 21, Pistoia
Heading north from Piazza Duomo will bring you to what is believed to be the city’s first cathedral: the Church of S. Andrea, home to a stunning pulpit and a masterpiece by Giovanni Pisano (though I still prefer Fra' Guglielmo's work in San Giovanni Fuoricivitas).
Museo dello Spedale del Ceppo
Heading East from the Piazza del Duomo will take you to the old Hospital of the Ceppo in piazza Giovanni XXIII. Founded in the 13th century, the Ospedale del Ceppo played a fundamental role in 1349 when the city was hit by an epidemic of the black death, bubonic plague.
Over the centuries, the building has undergone several structural changes. In the 1500s, the distinctive outer loggia was constructed, and in the 1600s, the entire structure was expanded. Be sure to take a moment to admire the loggia, whose façade is adorned with exquisite multicolored glazed terracotta crafted by Santi Buglioni. Beneath this, at the intersections of the archways, you’ll find round artworks (tondos) in glazed terracotta by Giovanni della Robbia.
Pistoia Underground
While the interior of the hospital is not open for visits, guided tours of the underground basement and tunnels are available through "Pistoia Sotterranea." Tickets are available for purchase at the office located just inside the hospital. Tours depart approximately every hour from 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM, lasting around an hour. Tours can also be offered in various languages upon request.
Marino Marini Museum
Lastly, why not visit the Marino Marini Museum, in Palazzo del Tau on Corso Fedi, just a short walk from Piazza della Sala.
This museum showcases many contemporary works by Marino Marini, a renowned artist from the 1940s who was born and raised in Pistoia. Among his most famous subjects are equestrian figures, as well as the “Pomone” series, which portrays nude female figures inspired by the Etruscan goddess of fertility.
The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM and from 3:00 PM to 7:00 PM (free admission on Saturdays), and Sunday from 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM. It is closed on Mondays. For more details, visit the museum's official website. Museo Marino Marini
Five good restaurants in Pistoia
Where to stay near Pistoia
Pistoia is within easy driving distance of Lucca, Pisa and Florence so have a look at our villas close to Pistoia
Villa Alessandro is a beautiful villa just 20 minutes drive away from Pistoia, it sleeps 8 to 11 and has a wonderful private pool.
