A week in Northern Tuscany, near Lucca
Montecatini Terme is a small thermal baths town in Tuscany, Italy, set between Florence and Pisa. It's a great place to base yourself to explore Northern Tuscany, surrounded by a wealth of cultural, natural, and culinary attractions.
The famous cities of Pisa, Florence and Lucca are close by, but there are also plenty of smaller towns, great beaches, museums, wine producers and, of course, thermal baths to explore nearby. Here's an idea of a week spent around Montecatini Terme - I've based on the idea of a family staying in a self-catering villa with a private pool.
Day 1 - Arrival in villa.
Relax after your flight or your train-ride down - have a private chef prepare an evening meal for you, or walk out to a nearby restaurant after enjoying an aperitivo by the pool.
Day 2 - Pisa and the beach
A day for the beach, with a visit to the leaning tower of Pisa thrown in. The tower of Pisa is startling, no matter how often we've all seen photos of it. These links with tell you more about who built the leaning tower of Pisa, and how to visit it - with advice on where to park.
But a visit to the leaning tower won't take all day - so head off to a beach afterwards. Any of these three will do. The first is wilder and quieter - though all beaches will have people on them during the summer. The beaches at Viareggio are part of the Italian Riviera - there are lines of umbrellas and everybody is very fashionable.
Beaches near Montecatini Terme
- Marina di Vecchiano
- A peaceful beach near Pisa, part of the Migliarino-San Rossore-Massaciuccoli Natural Park. We've visited in November when it's very quiet but the Mediterranean was still warm enough to go for a lovely swim in.
-
Viareggio
- A lively coastal town with sandy beaches, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. This is a fashionable resort, a place to see and be seen.
-
Lido di Camaiore
- A quieter alternative to Viareggio, with clean beaches and clear waters.
To find a restaurant here, have a look at our list of Restaurants near Pisa.
Bonus: Museo delle Navi (Pisa)
If you have time, or don't fancy the beach, I can highly recommend this delight of a museum about a cache of ancient ships recently discovered in Pisa, close to the Arno river.
Day 3 - Visit Pistoia
Pistoia is a charming city that is often left off tourist routes in favour of its more famous cousins, but it is well-worth a visit. The city centre is pedestrianised, ideal for wandering around quiet alley ways, and sitting outside little cafes in spacious and elegant squares.
Make sure you visit the beautiful Cathedral of San Zeno, and walk from here to Piazza della Sala with its market. You might well spy the stripy church of San Giovanni Fuorcivitas down a side alley (I know I did, so I sat down and sketched this view of the church).
Next to the church you'll find a lovely cafe Vergani, ideal for a coffee or aperitivo. "La Bottegaia" is a great restaurant in Piazza della Sala, ideal for lunch or for dinner.
To find out more about Pistoia read "Exploring Pistoia"
July Bonus - "Giostra dell'Orso"
If you're in the area at the end of July, you should definitely try to go and see this medieval jousting event. Every July 25 this historic event starts with a procession along the streets of the historic center, up to Piazza Duomo. Around 300 people in medieval costumes parade through the city with flags, trumpeters and knights.
Then the jousting competition is contested between twelve knights, three for each of the four districts that have as their symbols the Lion, the Deer, the Dragon and the Griffin. The knights, two by two, with their lances lowered, gallop along the appropriate track, created along the perimeter of the square, until they strike one of two stylised bears to score points for their district.
July Bonus - "Pistoia Blues"
During the tail end of Junemost of July the city of Pistoia hosts a fabulous Blues festival, with famous singers and groups playing in the medieval setting. I've seen some amazing musicians here, like B.B.King, Dr John (1999), Emir Kusturica and the No Smoking Orchestra - people you wouldn't expect to be playing in a small city in Tuscany; it's a magical venue.
Day 4 - Wine Tasting
There are wine producers all over Tuscany, with some excellent ones in the nearby "Colline Pisane" but if you want to go and explore Chianti and its hills covered with vineyards and dark forests of evergreen oaks, the drive from Monsummano will take less than an hour. Here's a wine-map of Chianti
I'd also recommend driving down the Tuscan coast to the amazing region of Bolgheri, where there is a collection of fabulous Super-Tuscan producers.
Wineries to visit around Pistoia
Super-Tuscan Wineries to visit in Bolgheri
Day 5 - Lucca and Lago Puccini
Lucca is a beautiful city, so beautiful that Napoleon gave it to his sister as a gift in 1805. Known as the "city of a hundred churches", it has plenty of stunning marble facades and religious interiors - my favourite is "San Michele in Foro", built on the site of the Roman Forum that once stood here. Other traces of Lucca's life as a Roman city are to be found in the spectacular oval square of "Piazza dell'anfiteatro", built where once the city's amphitheatre was; you can still see the original Roman structure, infilled with medieval brick-work, on the outside walls of the buildings that surround the square.
Have a look at these Restaurants in and around Lucca to find somewhere to eat - I can heartily recommend "Canuleia", in Via Canuleia close to Piazza dell'Anfiteatro.
The city of Lucca is surrounded by historic stately homes, the countryside around Lucca has long been a desirable area for the wealthy to have a country home - you can find more details here: Stately Villas of Lucca.
If you still have time after exploring Lucca, head off to see the Lake of Massaciuccoli, more commonly known as Lago Puccini, a nearby lake beloved by the local composer Puccini. It's a wonderful place, and if you're lucky you could even see a performance of an opera in the vast lake side theatre.
Check the programme for the Puccini Opera Festival.
Day 6 - Florence or Siena
If you want to tick some of the big art and architecture must-sees, today's the day. Florence is big, bustling and busy - but has some of the world's most amazing masterpieces. Siena is quieter and more medieval and has some artworks that I think are absolutely fantastic, prinicipal among them Lorenzetti's "Allegoria del Buon Governo", a fresco depicting the effects on a society of both a good and bad government.
To visit Florence, you'll find some tips here: Getting to Florence and some more on what to see here: Five things to do in Florence.
Getting to Florence will take you under an hour, while getting to Siena will take around an hour and a half.
Day 7 - Thermal baths and Vinci
A day to wind-down and relax, so why not try out the nearby Thermal baths at Grotta Giusti? I haven't been but my in-laws have and spoke very highly of them. The water for the baths comes from a naturally heated spring in a cave, and part of the treatment area is within the caves themselves.
Or enjoy an italian icecream in the main square of Monsummano Terme - there are two icecream parlours, both very good. Gelateria Filippo, in Piazza del Popolo, 175, also has sorbets for those who are dairy free.
If you'd prefer to carry on exploring, a short drive will bring you to Vinci, Leonardo's birthplace. You can see the 'Museo Leonardiano", a museum dedicated to the work of Leonardo da Vinci, featuring models of his inventions and artworks. The little town of Vinci is worth a visit, you can read more about it here: Exploring Vinci
Day 8 - Departure
All good things must come to an end, and today is departure day. But I'll leave with a short list of bonus places and activities, things you could plan a second trip around or swap around with the rough plan above:
Birdwatching near Monsummano
The plains around Monsummano are perfect for birdwatching. The "Padule di Fucecchio Nature Reserve" is one of the largest inland wetlands in Italy, and was beloved of Leonardo, who was inspired by his early years here to set up a little restaurant together with Sandro Botticelli called "Le Tre Rane (The Three Frogs - house specialty Frogs' legs!). Go for an early morning walk along the gravel tracks and see what you can hear or spot. Species include herons, egrets, and kingfishers.
Sport climbing near Monsummano
There is an excellent sport-climbing crag near Monsummano, the Cava Rossa - it's right next to the "Grotta Giusti" thermal baths.
Where to stay around Monsummano Terme
Villa Alessandro
This luxury Tuscan villa sleeps up to 11 and has been restored with great attention to detail both inside and outside. It is set in a wonderful position on the slopes of Mont'Albano, above Monsummano Terme, an ancient centre with hot thermal waters that spring from a grotto. The views are spectacular and can be enjoyed from the covered loggia or from the large private swimming pool, with an infinity edge and a large hydromassage area for 8 guests.
This villa can be booked together with Villa Falesia, next door, giving accommodation for up to 30 guests.
Villa Falesia
This luxury Tuscan villa sleeps 14, with 5 more accommodated on sofa-beds, with wonderful views of the Arno valley below and the apennines behind. A short distance away are the remains of the fortified town of Monsummano Alto, now abandoned for the more urbane Monsummano Terme that sprang up around the natural hot Spa waters of "Grotta Giusti", still an active and beautiful Spa resort today. Florence, Lucca and Pisa are all within easy reach of this villa, making an ideal base for exploring Tuscany.
Villa Chiara
Villa Chiara is a contemporary villa at the foot of the hills of Northern Tuscany, close to the natural hot springs of Monsummano Terme. The villa is set in its own private garden with views of the mountains and of the old fortified village of Montecatini Alto, still perched up on its strategic hilltop. The private swimming pool is an 'L' shape, with the main body at 11 x 7 metres plus an extra section of 4 x 5 mt, depth 1.4 to 1.55 mt, with shaded. furnished areas for relaxing. As a further delight, the house also has a large jacuzzi, a sauna, turkish bath and a gym, making this villa perfect for utter relaxation.
Author: Dan Wrightson
Dan Wrightson grew up in Tuscany, Italy and has been writing about, sketching and exploring Tuscany and Italy since 1983.
20th Mar 2025 20th Mar 2025